RunRyder - Trex 500 Chopped Rotorhead

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Flybarless Rotor Head Systems > Trex 500 Chopped Rotorhead

Stet
Elite Veteran
Location: Long Beach CA

Another local guy did this so I jumped on board.

Chopped, drilled and reamed to fit the shaft perfectly.

This lowers the head and the rotational moment of inertia and so far no boom strikes or other problems.

keepin' it real

11-18-2008 10:22 PM

puma1824
Senior Heliman
Location: Maryland, USA, MHA Member

Nice. Can you take a pic with it installed?

11-18-2008 11:15 PM

Ironhide
Senior Heliman
Location: dexter mi us

I like it !! Did you move the head down any ?

11-18-2008 11:52 PM

jbdww
Senior Heliman
Location: Round Rock, Texas

How much did you chop off?
Joe

Skids Up

11-19-2008 01:04 AM

Stet
Elite Veteran
Location: Long Beach CA

I cut off everything below the cylindrical portion, about 0.925 was removed. This moved the head down about the same distance. Had to shorten the rods to match.

I am going to chop a couple more heads, and will move the bolt hole upwards a bit to get more engagement between the mainshaft and the head which can't hurt.

When I pull the blade down, it clears the tail blade no problem and I am sure it will not ever flex enough to hit the boom.

I have the stiff orange aftermarket dampers in it and am still experimenting with the SK360 settings.

Dropping the head makes a lot of sense. Looks nice, eh?

keepin' it real

11-19-2008 04:08 AM

perfeet
New Heliman
Location: Oslo, Norway

Looks VERY nice!!!

11-19-2008 08:35 AM

Stet
Elite Veteran
Location: Long Beach CA

Here is the drawing.

I raised the hole 0.060 inches in this drawing to get a bit more engagement between the shaft and the head. This leaves 0.060 inch between the top of the shaft and the bottom of the spindle bore. Thus the head will sit 0.060 lower than what you see in my photos above.

I did not put in a split in the bottom of the head. By reaming the hole to the correct diameter, the shaft fits perfectly. I did use red loctite between the shaft and the head to bring the miniscule slop to zero. If you crash and bend your shaft, just heat the shaft with a torch until it comes loose from the head. This is a better approach IMHO than putting in a split which is considered an unsupported collet and has it's own drawbacks.

LEGAL: I make no warranty expressed or implied. Make this modification at your own risk.

keepin' it real

11-19-2008 05:21 PM

FBL
Heliman
Location: Hong Kong

Looks good, my friend is making me a CNC 450 head with the same effect, will test to see if the blade will strike the boom

11-19-2008 09:40 PM

HOMEPAGE

hockeyrules99
Senior Heliman
Location: topeka KS

looks kick ass

John

weekend yet?

11-19-2008 10:25 PM

acoustic0309
Heliman
Location: Tacoma, WA 98409

anybody tried this on a 600 yet?

11-21-2008 01:54 AM

beeflyer2
Key Veteran
Location: Woodstock, GA - US

sexy!

11-21-2008 01:58 AM

inkspot1967
rrProfessor
Location: cranston ri.

you know you can probably do it on the trex600 also. good point

Trex700e Ray N e- kit & "Fueled By Hate" Head
Next-D Rave Flybarless
Outrage Battery

11-21-2008 12:32 PM

FBL
Heliman
Location: Hong Kong

500 and 600 will be my next projects

11-21-2008 12:45 PM

HOMEPAGE

Stet
Elite Veteran
Location: Long Beach CA

I put it through the paces

Flew it from about 500 feet down at a 45 degree angle full pitch and throttle, then slammed it into full elevator turn. No boom strike or other issue. Head did not loosen up.

Actually, I was testing the SK360 too, trying to get rid of the elevator bounce which I did by lowering the damping gain to 8% which I really did not want to do. But that is the subject of another upcoming thread when I post the setup and ask for comments.

keepin' it real

11-25-2008 07:17 AM

puma1824
Senior Heliman
Location: Maryland, USA, MHA Member

Thanks to Stet I now have one chopped conversion done and soon to be on another TRex500

01-03-2009 03:40 PM

rcmike
Senior Heliman
Location: Dickson, TN

It definately works for a 600N as well. I don't have any special machining tools so I did it with a drill press, dremel, and a sawzall.

I didn't have a bit the same size as the main shaft so I cut some teeth in the end of a spare shaft and used it to drill the hole. I just got done flying it and it works great. I actually think it may be a little snappier. There is still about 6" between the blades and boom.

01-05-2009 06:47 PM

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Flybarless Rotor Head Systems > Trex 500 Chopped Rotorhead

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