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e-Next D Rave 3D > New Rave Build

OICU812
rrProfessor
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada

For the record the Next D motors "black" are Scorpion motors.

And Dammit I need one of these kits stat! Seriously I think this may be the best 450 out there! I like the top flybar for fast control and the layout in general.

...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...

08-20-2008 07:32 AM

helimatt
Elite Veteran
Location: Lafayette, IN

Brian,
Yeah, and thanks for putting spares like that in the kit- very thoughtful! Spare shafts and main gears too?...

Hmm I was thinking maybe of upgrading from my Trex 450...

Rave...Furion...Rave...Furion...

Never, ever, ever, ever give up.

08-20-2008 03:19 PM

inkspot1967
rrProfessor
Location: cranston ri.

definately the Rave it rocks

Trex700e Ray Nemovi's kit & Tyler Bonta Head
Rave Flybarless
WENZEL CANOPY
Team TomTom

08-20-2008 03:22 PM

nadalwannabe
Heliman
Location: Danville, IN USA

Well, I've done quite a bit of flying the past two days. This helicopter flys great! I was just flying in a pretty stiff wind; didn't even phase it at all. One thing I've noticed however, and I was wondering if anyone else out there has had this happen to them: when I come down and pop it level the helicopter almost seems to shake. The same shake happens when I do quick tic-tocs. The motor isn't bogging either so I don't think that is the problem.

-Matt
I'm going to fly Corbens furion next week to see how that flys compared to the Rave, but right now I would get the Rave over the furion any day. The furion's part count is insane. The rave goes together very well and quick. Rave parts are about the same price as trex parts. Furion parts are... well, MA parts. I'll let you know what I think of the furion though.

Parker

08-20-2008 06:46 PM

HOMEPAGE

Buzzin Brian
Elite Veteran
Location: College Station, Texas

There are a few things that we have noticed in the first run of head blocks. The inside hole for the dampening is slightly too big. For most people not flying super hard 3D this will never be an issue, and this issue will be addressed in future kits. To resolve this we insert the dampers in the head and apply a SMALL amount of mdeium CA to the outside edge of the dampers and hit them with a little kicker. (Actually Curtis glues in all of his dampers in all of his helis to keep them from wearing out to quickly) This will take up the gap and will really tighten up the head. Also be aware that low head speed issues will also cause severe oscialtion in the head. At higher head speeds this should be far less prevalent. If you have problems feel free to let me know, I will help in any way I can.

Brian

Build it, fly it, crash it. Repeat as often as needed.

08-20-2008 06:58 PM

nadalwannabe
Heliman
Location: Danville, IN USA

Brian,

Now that you mention it, the dampening does feel a little soft. I think I might try the medium ca and kicker. Other than that do you know of any other dampers that would fit in the head block and be any harder? Thanks again for the quick answers!

Parker

08-20-2008 07:15 PM

HOMEPAGE

Buzzin Brian
Elite Veteran
Location: College Station, Texas

The hardness is not the issue, its the small amount of extra room they can move. Beleive me when I tell you, the CA will make the head VERY nice. Mine is that way and it works VERY well. And not to mention that in reality its the dampers moving in the head block that wears them out in the first place on all helicopters. Gluing them all but elimiantes damper wear, this applys to all helicopters not just the Rave. Every heli you have seen Curtis fly for the last 5 years has had the dampers glued in the head block. There has to be a reason why. I do the same as well at this point. It actually works quite well.

Brian

Build it, fly it, crash it. Repeat as often as needed.

08-20-2008 07:45 PM

nadalwannabe
Heliman
Location: Danville, IN USA

Alright, thanks for the info. I learned something new today. I'll go ahead and ca the dampers.

08-20-2008 07:51 PM

HOMEPAGE

ammo
Veteran
Location: Singapore

Might be worth a try with the CA trick

Is lubrication between the spindle vs damper still required?

08-22-2008 06:03 PM

Buzzin Brian
Elite Veteran
Location: College Station, Texas

I have never lubed them, but I am sure it is ok. I just like a tight head, and this usually does the trick for me.

Build it, fly it, crash it. Repeat as often as needed.

08-23-2008 12:00 AM

buster1
Senior Heliman
Location: Manhattan, NY

where can you buy the Rave - what online stores are either carrying or stocking? Are there any in stock??

09-04-2008 08:03 PM

Buzzin Brian
Elite Veteran
Location: College Station, Texas

They are not in stores just yet. We are working out as many little details as we can from what we learned about the short release of kits at IRCHA. Then you will see a run of kits and parts become available at the same time.

Build it, fly it, crash it. Repeat as often as needed.

09-04-2008 08:23 PM

vetrider
Elite Veteran
Location: Daleville, AL (Ft.Rucker)

Just killing time after coming home from work (2nd shift) and I saw this thread. Cool heli for sure.

Brian, I noticed the CAing dampener comment "Every heli you have seen Curtis fly for the last 5 years has had the dampers glued in the head block. There has to be a reason why."
And it makes a lot of sense that CY would do that. He's got tremendous experience at the world level of F3C and they don't want their heli changing how it feels in flight or hovering. Dampeners wearing out cause premature rebuilds and all the setup tweaking that goes with it to get the heli back to competition level.

Very good info in an unlikely thread that relates to all the larger heli's too.

Thanks dude.

Nolan Manley
RREMODELS, KBDDintl, Magnum Fuel
Stratus, ODIN, Knight3D, ATOM 500, TREX 700N.

09-24-2008 06:13 AM

Buzzin Brian
Elite Veteran
Location: College Station, Texas

You hit it spot on! Not wanting the model to change progressivly over time is the primary reason for gluing the dampers in place. It sounds odd at first, but when you realize that the rubber will never stick to the aluminum permenantly anyway even with glue you realize there is little damage you might do if you are ACTUALLY carefull to do the job right. Beleive me, we have used very high quality epoxy to glue in dampers, and if we want them out all you need to do is heat the head block up with a heat gun and they come right out. Actually a good epoxy works best to glue in dampers as it gives you plenty of time and can be cleaned up easier with alcohol. However CA works to keep a build moving forward, and serves the same purpose.

Thanks for the comments. I try to pass stuff along in the hobby whenever I can.

Build it, fly it, crash it. Repeat as often as needed.

09-24-2008 06:25 AM

Laurens
Key Veteran
Location: Oegstgeest, NL

What is used to get the CA out of the headblock if there is a change of dampers?

TeamFlightpower, Team Flighttech, BW Stratus, Trex 500

10-27-2008 07:50 PM

rcman
Veteran
Location: Logan, Utah

I used some CA de-bonder, which softened the CA a bit. Then you can use a cloth to wipe it out.

I have also used the True Blood dampers from the T-rex 450 V1 and and than you don't need to CA the dampers in. I will say that CA the stock dampers worked very well. Improver the way it felt in the air a lot.

David

10-27-2008 07:58 PM

Laurens
Key Veteran
Location: Oegstgeest, NL

I think I'm going to give this method a try. I don't have a Rave though.

TeamFlightpower, Team Flighttech, BW Stratus, Trex 500

10-28-2008 04:04 PM

ric4nier
Heliman
Location: Providence RI USA

Dampners

The True Blood dampers from the T-rex 450 V1 seem to work very good, no ca etc. That was a good tip!

Rick

10-29-2008 01:42 AM

rcman
Veteran
Location: Logan, Utah

Yep the do the trick

David

10-29-2008 02:35 AM

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